When I visited the Herbarium at the NHM, I
mentioned in passing to Andrea that somewhere in Vienna there was a statue of
Baron Karl von Hügel. I also confessed
to her that I wandered round Hietzing for the best part of an afternoon hoping
to stumble upon it (my internet searches had yielded nothing about its exact
location).
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Glass houses at Schönbrunn Palace. |
I enjoyed my ramble, which started at Schönbrunn Palace and then expanded in the neighbouring ‘suburb’ of Hietzing.
This is where Hügel lived after his world botanizing trip, and where his famous
gardens were. (His home was bulldozed around the turn of last century).
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The Cunningham brothers, always nearby. |
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House decorations, a wandering line. |
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Plastic bags for dog owners, the world over... |
As I was finishing up at the Herbarium an
employee named Michael came and found me in the depths of the herbarium with a
map printed from the computer. He had found Hügel Park, within which one could
assume the statue sat. Dr Vitek offered some advice regarding exact location of
tram stops (having grown up in the neighbourhood). He also marked on the map
where another well-known Austrian botanist had lived (I’m afraid her name
escapes me). It is probably a coincidence but it was rather nice to think one
could name a handful of botanists who had lived in Hietzing.
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Embassy in Hietzing |
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Pink House on Hügelgasse |
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My track, the straight green line is the satelite's interpretation of my train ride from Wien. |
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First sighting of VH |
When I look on the map now, I can see how
close I was to where I wanted to go. I was not lost, or indeed bushed, but my inability
to interpret this unfamiliar landscape and find the most likely place for the
statue’s whereabouts did need some inside information.
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Local signage |
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Framed by trees |
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Also framed by leaves, back at Schönbrunn Palace. |
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Thank you 'Gut photographer'! (Playground in the background.) |
Hügel himself (even in marble) is very
imposing. Having since visited an exhibition, The Brancusi Effect, I can
reflect on the role of the plinth in Hügel in the Park. The extra couple of
metres in height provided the statue with an outlook over the kindergarten and
an air about ‘him’ that matches the descriptions of the living man. He seemed totally unperturbed by the mass of
small children playing and shouting gleefully in the playground directly behind
him. And I was ever so grateful to the woman, with whom I shared no common
language, beyond arm waving, who took the photo of me with Hügel—proof that I
made it.
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Me and VH |
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Back to the train, job done. |
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